Discussion:
[ale] Future-proofing a house for networking -- what to run?
Derek Atkins
2017-09-11 13:33:47 UTC
Permalink
Hi Alers,

If you had the ability to future-proof your house (imagine open studs,
so you could run anything you wanted), what would you run. Assume a max
of 6 cables per drop?

Last time I ran 4x Cat6A and 2x RG6. However I'm never using both RG6
F-connectors, so I figured I could replace that with something else.
And before you ask, yes, I *AM* using all 4 RJ45 connectors in some of
my drops (and in one place I wish I had MORE Rj45). So, what else
should I run?

My current theory is 4x Cat6A, 1x RG6, and 1x Fiber.

However I'm not sure what kind of "fiber" to run, nor what kind of
connector I should use.

Any suggestions or recommendations?

-derek
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
***@ihtfp.com www.ihtfp.com
Computer and Internet Security Consultant
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
***@ale.org
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
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http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
Jim Kinney
2017-09-11 13:51:46 UTC
Permalink
10G multimode with lc connectors.

Unless you _really_ are forward looking and install 100G.

Otherwise install conduit and spare pull strings. That really future-proofs an install.

I would plan for a 1" conduit with a single cat6, one rg6, one low voltage line (music) and a pull string.

Spend money on a distribution center that all these lines start from. Good 10G switch, powered cable splitter, good remote adjustable amp for music control.
Post by Derek Atkins
Hi Alers,
If you had the ability to future-proof your house (imagine open studs,
so you could run anything you wanted), what would you run. Assume a max
of 6 cables per drop?
Last time I ran 4x Cat6A and 2x RG6. However I'm never using both RG6
F-connectors, so I figured I could replace that with something else.
And before you ask, yes, I *AM* using all 4 RJ45 connectors in some of
my drops (and in one place I wish I had MORE Rj45). So, what else
should I run?
My current theory is 4x Cat6A, 1x RG6, and 1x Fiber.
However I'm not sure what kind of "fiber" to run, nor what kind of
connector I should use.
Any suggestions or recommendations?
-derek
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
Computer and Internet Security Consultant
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
--
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. All tyopes are thumb related and reflect authenticity.
Derek Atkins
2017-09-11 14:04:42 UTC
Permalink
Jim,
Post by Jim Kinney
10G multimode with lc connectors.
is it "easy" to build these? Are there LC connector keystone jacks
available?
Post by Jim Kinney
Unless you _really_ are forward looking and install 100G.
OM3 fiber looks like it will get to 40/100G
Post by Jim Kinney
Otherwise install conduit and spare pull strings. That really
future-proofs an install.
I would plan for a 1" conduit with a single cat6, one rg6, one low voltage
line (music) and a pull string.
I'm not sure this is REALLY an option for me.I feel it is certainly a more
expensive option vs just running a bunch of cables now.
Post by Jim Kinney
Spend money on a distribution center that all these lines start from. Good
10G switch, powered cable splitter, good remote adjustable amp for music
control.
Yes. My current house has a 96-port RJ45 patch panel (2/3 full). I would
definitely repeat that. Similar with audio -- I've got a 6-zone amp
(although I dont think my current one is remotely adjustable -- but I just
adjust via iTunes).

I'm still researching TV/HDMI distribution systems....

Oh, and trying to find a good 16-24-port PoE (10/)100/1000 switch.

-derek
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Hi Alers,
If you had the ability to future-proof your house (imagine open studs,
so you could run anything you wanted), what would you run. Assume a max
of 6 cables per drop?
Last time I ran 4x Cat6A and 2x RG6. However I'm never using both RG6
F-connectors, so I figured I could replace that with something else.
And before you ask, yes, I *AM* using all 4 RJ45 connectors in some of
my drops (and in one place I wish I had MORE Rj45). So, what else
should I run?
My current theory is 4x Cat6A, 1x RG6, and 1x Fiber.
However I'm not sure what kind of "fiber" to run, nor what kind of
connector I should use.
Any suggestions or recommendations?
-derek
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
Computer and Internet Security Consultant
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
--
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. All tyopes are thumb related
and reflect authenticity.
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
***@ihtfp.com www.ihtfp.com
Computer and Internet Security Consultant

_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
***@ale.org
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
Jim Kinney
2017-09-11 15:19:09 UTC
Permalink
Post by Derek Atkins
Jim,
Post by Jim Kinney
10G multimode with lc connectors.
is it "easy" to build these? Are there LC connector keystone jacks
available?
Post by Jim Kinney
Unless you _really_ are forward looking and install 100G.
OM3 fiber looks like it will get to 40/100G
Post by Jim Kinney
Otherwise install conduit and spare pull strings. That really
future-proofs an install.
I would plan for a 1" conduit with a single cat6, one rg6, one low
voltage
Post by Jim Kinney
line (music) and a pull string.
I'm not sure this is REALLY an option for me.I feel it is certainly a more
expensive option vs just running a bunch of cables now.
Post by Jim Kinney
Spend money on a distribution center that all these lines start from.
Good
Post by Jim Kinney
10G switch, powered cable splitter, good remote adjustable amp for
music
Post by Jim Kinney
control.
Yes. My current house has a 96-port RJ45 patch panel (2/3 full). I would
definitely repeat that. Similar with audio -- I've got a 6-zone amp
(although I dont think my current one is remotely adjustable -- but I just
adjust via iTunes).
I'm still researching TV/HDMI distribution systems....
Oh, and trying to find a good 16-24-port PoE (10/)100/1000 switch.
Look at Ubiquity. They have a selection of PoE switches in various port counts and rather affordable pricing. I've got a WAP and a 16 port 10G switch from them. Pretty happy with both. Control software is closed source. Hardware looks like it may run the open switch software whose name escapes me.
Post by Derek Atkins
-derek
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Hi Alers,
If you had the ability to future-proof your house (imagine open
studs,
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
so you could run anything you wanted), what would you run. Assume a max
of 6 cables per drop?
Last time I ran 4x Cat6A and 2x RG6. However I'm never using both
RG6
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
F-connectors, so I figured I could replace that with something else.
And before you ask, yes, I *AM* using all 4 RJ45 connectors in some
of
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
my drops (and in one place I wish I had MORE Rj45). So, what else
should I run?
My current theory is 4x Cat6A, 1x RG6, and 1x Fiber.
However I'm not sure what kind of "fiber" to run, nor what kind of
connector I should use.
Any suggestions or recommendations?
-derek
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
Computer and Internet Security Consultant
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
--
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. All tyopes are thumb
related
Post by Jim Kinney
and reflect authenticity.
--
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. All tyopes are thumb related and reflect authenticity.

_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
***@ale.org
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
Kyle Brieden
2017-09-11 18:36:28 UTC
Permalink
EdgeOS, and absolutely LOVE my ubiquity gear. I got the Unifi 8 port
PoE switch, Unifi Security Gateway, and the WAP that support 802.11ac.
It has literally changed my home networking. Can't recommend it enough.
I got all 3 of those seriously high grade boxes for about the same
price you pay for a consumer router that supports 802.11ac.

HIGHLY recommend.

+1


---
Very respectfully,
Kyle Brieden
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Jim,
Post by Jim Kinney
10G multimode with lc connectors.
is it "easy" to build these? Are there LC connector keystone jacks
available?
Post by Jim Kinney
Unless you _really_ are forward looking and install 100G.
OM3 fiber looks like it will get to 40/100G
Post by Jim Kinney
Otherwise install conduit and spare pull strings. That really future-proofs an install.
I would plan for a 1" conduit with a single cat6, one rg6, one low
voltage
Post by Jim Kinney
line (music) and a pull string.
I'm not sure this is REALLY an option for me.I feel it is certainly a more
expensive option vs just running a bunch of cables now.
Post by Jim Kinney
Spend money on a distribution center that all these lines start from.
Good
Post by Jim Kinney
10G switch, powered cable splitter, good remote adjustable amp for
music
Post by Jim Kinney
control.
Yes. My current house has a 96-port RJ45 patch panel (2/3 full). I would
definitely repeat that. Similar with audio -- I've got a 6-zone amp
(although I dont think my current one is remotely adjustable -- but I just
adjust via iTunes).
I'm still researching TV/HDMI distribution systems....
Oh, and trying to find a good 16-24-port PoE (10/)100/1000 switch.
Look at Ubiquity. They have a selection of PoE switches in various
port counts and rather affordable pricing. I've got a WAP and a 16
port 10G switch from them. Pretty happy with both. Control software is
closed source. Hardware looks like it may run the open switch software
whose name escapes me.
Post by Derek Atkins
-derek
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Hi Alers,
If you had the ability to future-proof your house (imagine open
studs,
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
so you could run anything you wanted), what would you run. Assume a max
of 6 cables per drop?
Last time I ran 4x Cat6A and 2x RG6. However I'm never using both
RG6
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
F-connectors, so I figured I could replace that with something else.
And before you ask, yes, I *AM* using all 4 RJ45 connectors in some
of
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
my drops (and in one place I wish I had MORE Rj45). So, what else
should I run?
My current theory is 4x Cat6A, 1x RG6, and 1x Fiber.
However I'm not sure what kind of "fiber" to run, nor what kind of
connector I should use.
Any suggestions or recommendations?
-derek
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
Computer and Internet Security Consultant
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
--
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. All tyopes are thumb
related
Post by Jim Kinney
and reflect authenticity.
Derek Atkins
2017-09-11 18:58:58 UTC
Permalink
Kyle,

The Unifi US-24-500W is $523 on Amazon. How is that "inexpensive"? I
said I needed 16-24 ports, so not sure how an 8-port helps me. I do admit
I didn't specify "rackmount" in my OP -- Mea Culpa. But I'd rather find
something more in the $200 range for that purpose (a physically private
network of IP security cameras).

Yes, I do have an Edgerouter for my main router, which replaced my
Routerboard because the RB750 couldn't keep up with my Gigapower network.
I mostly like it.

Honestly I kind of like my DAP-2660 AC1200 AP and see little reason to
switch. It's worked quite well for me.

Thanks,

-derek
Post by Kyle Brieden
EdgeOS, and absolutely LOVE my ubiquity gear. I got the Unifi 8 port
PoE switch, Unifi Security Gateway, and the WAP that support 802.11ac.
It has literally changed my home networking. Can't recommend it enough.
I got all 3 of those seriously high grade boxes for about the same
price you pay for a consumer router that supports 802.11ac.
HIGHLY recommend.
+1
---
Very respectfully,
Kyle Brieden
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Jim,
Post by Jim Kinney
10G multimode with lc connectors.
is it "easy" to build these? Are there LC connector keystone jacks
available?
Post by Jim Kinney
Unless you _really_ are forward looking and install 100G.
OM3 fiber looks like it will get to 40/100G
Post by Jim Kinney
Otherwise install conduit and spare pull strings. That really
future-proofs an install.
I would plan for a 1" conduit with a single cat6, one rg6, one low
voltage
Post by Jim Kinney
line (music) and a pull string.
I'm not sure this is REALLY an option for me.I feel it is certainly a more
expensive option vs just running a bunch of cables now.
Post by Jim Kinney
Spend money on a distribution center that all these lines start from.
Good
Post by Jim Kinney
10G switch, powered cable splitter, good remote adjustable amp for
music
Post by Jim Kinney
control.
Yes. My current house has a 96-port RJ45 patch panel (2/3 full). I would
definitely repeat that. Similar with audio -- I've got a 6-zone amp
(although I dont think my current one is remotely adjustable -- but I just
adjust via iTunes).
I'm still researching TV/HDMI distribution systems....
Oh, and trying to find a good 16-24-port PoE (10/)100/1000 switch.
Look at Ubiquity. They have a selection of PoE switches in various
port counts and rather affordable pricing. I've got a WAP and a 16
port 10G switch from them. Pretty happy with both. Control software is
closed source. Hardware looks like it may run the open switch software
whose name escapes me.
Post by Derek Atkins
-derek
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Hi Alers,
If you had the ability to future-proof your house (imagine open
studs,
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
so you could run anything you wanted), what would you run. Assume a max
of 6 cables per drop?
Last time I ran 4x Cat6A and 2x RG6. However I'm never using both
RG6
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
F-connectors, so I figured I could replace that with something else.
And before you ask, yes, I *AM* using all 4 RJ45 connectors in some
of
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
my drops (and in one place I wish I had MORE Rj45). So, what else
should I run?
My current theory is 4x Cat6A, 1x RG6, and 1x Fiber.
However I'm not sure what kind of "fiber" to run, nor what kind of
connector I should use.
Any suggestions or recommendations?
-derek
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
Computer and Internet Security Consultant
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
--
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. All tyopes are thumb
related
Post by Jim Kinney
and reflect authenticity.
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
***@ihtfp.com www.ihtfp.com
Computer and Internet Security Consultant

_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
***@ale.org
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
Jim Kinney
2017-09-11 19:16:25 UTC
Permalink
That's a 24-port 1G PoE switch. It provides power to 24 downstream
devices like phones, small switches and with some hacking, systems.
That particular switch is pretty useful for being a gateway switch for
other Ubiquiti WAPs (most all run on PoE).
I have this for home wireless:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO
-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505157073&sr=1-
1&keywords=ubiquiti%2BWAP&th=1
Due to a large, sheetmetal duct in the center of the house between
floors, there's a shadow in coverage that's not good. That $130 is a
low cost way to slap a second unit in the ceiling on the top floor to
fill in that shadow.
Just search Amazon for Ubiquiti. Lots of toys at very good prices.
Post by Derek Atkins
Kyle,
The Unifi US-24-500W is $523 on Amazon. How is that
"inexpensive"? I
said I needed 16-24 ports, so not sure how an 8-port helps me. I do admit
I didn't specify "rackmount" in my OP -- Mea Culpa. But I'd rather find
something more in the $200 range for that purpose (a physically private
network of IP security cameras).
Yes, I do have an Edgerouter for my main router, which replaced my
Routerboard because the RB750 couldn't keep up with my Gigapower network.
I mostly like it.
Honestly I kind of like my DAP-2660 AC1200 AP and see little reason to
switch. It's worked quite well for me.
Thanks,
-derek
Post by Kyle Brieden
EdgeOS, and absolutely LOVE my ubiquity gear. I got the Unifi 8 port
PoE switch, Unifi Security Gateway, and the WAP that support
802.11ac.
It has literally changed my home networking. Can't recommend it enough.
I got all 3 of those seriously high grade boxes for about the same
price you pay for a consumer router that supports 802.11ac.
HIGHLY recommend.
+1
---
Very respectfully,
Kyle Brieden
Post by Jim Kinney
com>
Post by Derek Atkins
Jim,
Post by Jim Kinney
10G multimode with lc connectors.
is it "easy" to build these? Are there LC connector keystone jacks
available?
Post by Jim Kinney
Unless you _really_ are forward looking and install 100G.
OM3 fiber looks like it will get to 40/100G
Post by Jim Kinney
Otherwise install conduit and spare pull strings. That really
future-proofs an install.
I would plan for a 1" conduit with a single cat6, one rg6, one low
voltage
Post by Jim Kinney
line (music) and a pull string.
I'm not sure this is REALLY an option for me.I feel it is
certainly a
more
expensive option vs just running a bunch of cables now.
Post by Jim Kinney
Spend money on a distribution center that all these lines start from.
Good
Post by Jim Kinney
10G switch, powered cable splitter, good remote adjustable amp for
music
Post by Jim Kinney
control.
Yes. My current house has a 96-port RJ45 patch panel (2/3
full). I
would
definitely repeat that. Similar with audio -- I've got a 6-
zone amp
(although I dont think my current one is remotely adjustable --
but I
just
adjust via iTunes).
I'm still researching TV/HDMI distribution systems....
Oh, and trying to find a good 16-24-port PoE (10/)100/1000 switch.
Look at Ubiquity. They have a selection of PoE switches in
various
port counts and rather affordable pricing. I've got a WAP and a 16
port 10G switch from them. Pretty happy with both. Control
software is
closed source. Hardware looks like it may run the open switch software
whose name escapes me.
Post by Derek Atkins
-derek
Post by Jim Kinney
fp.com>
Post by Derek Atkins
Hi Alers,
If you had the ability to future-proof your house (imagine open
studs,
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
so you could run anything you wanted), what would you
run. Assume a
max
of 6 cables per drop?
Last time I ran 4x Cat6A and 2x RG6. However I'm never using both
RG6
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
F-connectors, so I figured I could replace that with
something else.
And before you ask, yes, I *AM* using all 4 RJ45 connectors in some
of
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
my drops (and in one place I wish I had MORE Rj45). So, what else
should I run?
My current theory is 4x Cat6A, 1x RG6, and 1x Fiber.
However I'm not sure what kind of "fiber" to run, nor what kind of
connector I should use.
Any suggestions or recommendations?
-derek
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
Computer and Internet Security Consultant
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
--
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. All tyopes are thumb
related
Post by Jim Kinney
and reflect authenticity.
Derek Atkins
2017-09-11 19:30:35 UTC
Permalink
Jim,

Yes, I know the US-24-500W is a 24-port switch. Kyle recommended an
8-port, which doesn't help me.

The PoE switch is, as I just said, for my PoE IP Camera network. My main
network is separate. I cannot leverage any open ports on this switch for
my main network (and I doubt the IP cameras suppose VLANs).

I've already got a Cisco SG200-50 for my main switch. For the few
additional PoE devices I have (currently: 2) I can just use standard PoE
power injectors. They cost $17 each, which is much less than the
additional cost of a PoE capable switch. So if I need to add a second AP,
I'll happily pay another $17 vs having to spend an additional $100-200 for
a (second) PoE-capable switch.

I would also prefer to limit the number of switches if I can to limit the
required cross-connects (which of course become bottlenecks).

-derek
Post by Jim Kinney
That's a 24-port 1G PoE switch. It provides power to 24 downstream
devices like phones, small switches and with some hacking, systems.
That particular switch is pretty useful for being a gateway switch for
other Ubiquiti WAPs (most all run on PoE).
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO
-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505157073&sr=1-
1&keywords=ubiquiti%2BWAP&th=1
Due to a large, sheetmetal duct in the center of the house between
floors, there's a shadow in coverage that's not good. That $130 is a
low cost way to slap a second unit in the ceiling on the top floor to
fill in that shadow.
Just search Amazon for Ubiquiti. Lots of toys at very good prices.
Post by Derek Atkins
Kyle,
The Unifi US-24-500W is $523 on Amazon. How is that
"inexpensive"? I
said I needed 16-24 ports, so not sure how an 8-port helps me. I do admit
I didn't specify "rackmount" in my OP -- Mea Culpa. But I'd rather find
something more in the $200 range for that purpose (a physically private
network of IP security cameras).
Yes, I do have an Edgerouter for my main router, which replaced my
Routerboard because the RB750 couldn't keep up with my Gigapower network.
I mostly like it.
Honestly I kind of like my DAP-2660 AC1200 AP and see little reason to
switch. It's worked quite well for me.
Thanks,
-derek
Post by Kyle Brieden
EdgeOS, and absolutely LOVE my ubiquity gear. I got the Unifi 8 port
PoE switch, Unifi Security Gateway, and the WAP that support 802.11ac.
It has literally changed my home networking. Can't recommend it enough.
I got all 3 of those seriously high grade boxes for about the same
price you pay for a consumer router that supports 802.11ac.
HIGHLY recommend.
+1
---
Very respectfully,
Kyle Brieden
Post by Jim Kinney
com>
Post by Derek Atkins
Jim,
Post by Jim Kinney
10G multimode with lc connectors.
is it "easy" to build these? Are there LC connector keystone jacks
available?
Post by Jim Kinney
Unless you _really_ are forward looking and install 100G.
OM3 fiber looks like it will get to 40/100G
Post by Jim Kinney
Otherwise install conduit and spare pull strings. That really
future-proofs an install.
I would plan for a 1" conduit with a single cat6, one rg6, one low
voltage
Post by Jim Kinney
line (music) and a pull string.
I'm not sure this is REALLY an option for me.I feel it is
certainly a
more
expensive option vs just running a bunch of cables now.
Post by Jim Kinney
Spend money on a distribution center that all these lines start from.
Good
Post by Jim Kinney
10G switch, powered cable splitter, good remote adjustable amp for
music
Post by Jim Kinney
control.
Yes. My current house has a 96-port RJ45 patch panel (2/3
full). I
would
definitely repeat that. Similar with audio -- I've got a 6-
zone amp
(although I dont think my current one is remotely adjustable --
but I
just
adjust via iTunes).
I'm still researching TV/HDMI distribution systems....
Oh, and trying to find a good 16-24-port PoE (10/)100/1000 switch.
Look at Ubiquity. They have a selection of PoE switches in various
port counts and rather affordable pricing. I've got a WAP and a 16
port 10G switch from them. Pretty happy with both. Control software is
closed source. Hardware looks like it may run the open switch software
whose name escapes me.
Post by Derek Atkins
-derek
Post by Jim Kinney
fp.com>
Post by Derek Atkins
Hi Alers,
If you had the ability to future-proof your house (imagine open
studs,
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
so you could run anything you wanted), what would you
run. Assume a
max
of 6 cables per drop?
Last time I ran 4x Cat6A and 2x RG6. However I'm never using both
RG6
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
F-connectors, so I figured I could replace that with something else.
And before you ask, yes, I *AM* using all 4 RJ45 connectors in some
of
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
my drops (and in one place I wish I had MORE Rj45). So, what else
should I run?
My current theory is 4x Cat6A, 1x RG6, and 1x Fiber.
However I'm not sure what kind of "fiber" to run, nor what kind of
connector I should use.
Any suggestions or recommendations?
-derek
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
Computer and Internet Security Consultant
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
--
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. All tyopes are thumb
related
Post by Jim Kinney
and reflect authenticity.
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
***@ihtfp.com www.ihtfp.com
Computer and Internet Security Consultant

_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
***@ale.org
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
Kyle Brieden
2017-09-12 13:39:40 UTC
Permalink
I suppose I could have been more clear. I was not so much recommending
the specific gear I have as I was recommending Ubiquiti as a brand, and
noting the gear that I have as anecdotal evidence to support my
recommendation. If you've already got high enough density switching
infrastructure, don't change it for sake of having all your gear be the
same brand. Network gear is network gear, and it all plays nice
together... more or less, anyway. But Ubiquiti gear is, in my
experience, far less expensive than comparably featured, supported, and
classed gear from damn near any other manufacturer.


24 port managed PoE - $365 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-Switch-Managed-US-24-250W/dp/B00OJZUQ24/
24 port managed PoE - $385 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeSwitch-ES-24-250W-24-Ports-Managed/dp/B00LV8Z2V2/
24 port managed PoE - $305 -
https://www.amazon.com/Cisco-SG200-26P-Ethernet-Mini-GBIC-SLM2024PT/dp/B004GHMU5Q/
24 port managed - $215 -
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-GS724Tv4-24-Port-Lifetime-Protection/dp/B00I5W5EGA/
24 port managed - $193 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-24-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01LZBLO0U/
24 port managed - $185 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Edgeswitch-Gigabit-ES-24-LITE/dp/B013Z21ZJE/

There's lots of range and options, I was simply saying that I recommend
Ubiquiti. Their support is incredibly helpful and knowledgeable (in my
experience with them), their gear is high quality and easy to deploy,
and I've been happy with the products I've purchased to date.

---
Very respectfully,
Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Jim,
Yes, I know the US-24-500W is a 24-port switch. Kyle recommended an
8-port, which doesn't help me.
The PoE switch is, as I just said, for my PoE IP Camera network. My main
network is separate. I cannot leverage any open ports on this switch for
my main network (and I doubt the IP cameras suppose VLANs).
I've already got a Cisco SG200-50 for my main switch. For the few
additional PoE devices I have (currently: 2) I can just use standard PoE
power injectors. They cost $17 each, which is much less than the
additional cost of a PoE capable switch. So if I need to add a second AP,
I'll happily pay another $17 vs having to spend an additional $100-200 for
a (second) PoE-capable switch.
I would also prefer to limit the number of switches if I can to limit the
required cross-connects (which of course become bottlenecks).
-derek
Post by Jim Kinney
That's a 24-port 1G PoE switch. It provides power to 24 downstream
devices like phones, small switches and with some hacking, systems.
That particular switch is pretty useful for being a gateway switch for
other Ubiquiti WAPs (most all run on PoE).
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO
-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505157073&sr=1-
1&keywords=ubiquiti%2BWAP&th=1
Due to a large, sheetmetal duct in the center of the house between
floors, there's a shadow in coverage that's not good. That $130 is a
low cost way to slap a second unit in the ceiling on the top floor to
fill in that shadow.
Just search Amazon for Ubiquiti. Lots of toys at very good prices.
Post by Derek Atkins
Kyle,
The Unifi US-24-500W is $523 on Amazon. How is that
"inexpensive"? I
said I needed 16-24 ports, so not sure how an 8-port helps me. I do admit
I didn't specify "rackmount" in my OP -- Mea Culpa. But I'd rather find
something more in the $200 range for that purpose (a physically private
network of IP security cameras).
Yes, I do have an Edgerouter for my main router, which replaced my
Routerboard because the RB750 couldn't keep up with my Gigapower network.
I mostly like it.
Honestly I kind of like my DAP-2660 AC1200 AP and see little reason to
switch. It's worked quite well for me.
Thanks,
-derek
Post by Kyle Brieden
EdgeOS, and absolutely LOVE my ubiquity gear. I got the Unifi 8 port
PoE switch, Unifi Security Gateway, and the WAP that support 802.11ac.
It has literally changed my home networking. Can't recommend it enough.
I got all 3 of those seriously high grade boxes for about the same
price you pay for a consumer router that supports 802.11ac.
HIGHLY recommend.
+1
---
Very respectfully,
Kyle Brieden
Post by Jim Kinney
com>
Post by Derek Atkins
Jim,
Post by Jim Kinney
10G multimode with lc connectors.
is it "easy" to build these? Are there LC connector keystone jacks
available?
Post by Jim Kinney
Unless you _really_ are forward looking and install 100G.
OM3 fiber looks like it will get to 40/100G
Post by Jim Kinney
Otherwise install conduit and spare pull strings. That really
future-proofs an install.
I would plan for a 1" conduit with a single cat6, one rg6, one low
voltage
Post by Jim Kinney
line (music) and a pull string.
I'm not sure this is REALLY an option for me.I feel it is
certainly a
more
expensive option vs just running a bunch of cables now.
Post by Jim Kinney
Spend money on a distribution center that all these lines start from.
Good
Post by Jim Kinney
10G switch, powered cable splitter, good remote adjustable amp for
music
Post by Jim Kinney
control.
Yes. My current house has a 96-port RJ45 patch panel (2/3
full). I
would
definitely repeat that. Similar with audio -- I've got a 6-
zone amp
(although I dont think my current one is remotely adjustable --
but I
just
adjust via iTunes).
I'm still researching TV/HDMI distribution systems....
Oh, and trying to find a good 16-24-port PoE (10/)100/1000 switch.
Look at Ubiquity. They have a selection of PoE switches in various
port counts and rather affordable pricing. I've got a WAP and a 16
port 10G switch from them. Pretty happy with both. Control software is
closed source. Hardware looks like it may run the open switch software
whose name escapes me.
Post by Derek Atkins
-derek
Post by Jim Kinney
fp.com>
Post by Derek Atkins
Hi Alers,
If you had the ability to future-proof your house (imagine open
studs,
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
so you could run anything you wanted), what would you
run. Assume a
max
of 6 cables per drop?
Last time I ran 4x Cat6A and 2x RG6. However I'm never using both
RG6
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
F-connectors, so I figured I could replace that with
something else.
And before you ask, yes, I *AM* using all 4 RJ45 connectors in some
of
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
my drops (and in one place I wish I had MORE Rj45). So, what else
should I run?
My current theory is 4x Cat6A, 1x RG6, and 1x Fiber.
However I'm not sure what kind of "fiber" to run, nor what kind of
connector I should use.
Any suggestions or recommendations?
-derek
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
Computer and Internet Security Consultant
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
--
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. All tyopes are thumb
related
Post by Jim Kinney
and reflect authenticity.
Derek Atkins
2017-09-12 15:09:20 UTC
Permalink
Kyle,

Thanks for the info. I must applogize to you -- I read your reply
before seeing the one to which you were replying.

The cameras I plan to get require 12W each (well, the power supply they
come with is a 12V 1A power supply -- so I'm ASSUMING that it will want
to draw 12W from PoE). This means that the 250W swich can only support
20 cameras (which *MAY* be sufficient). So that would certainly save
~$200 versus the -500W version. On the other hand part of that 250W
probably needs to power the router itself, so it's probably fewer
cameras than that. So I might still need to go to the 500W version for
$523.

The Cisco you list below only has 12 PoE ports, which isn't sufficient.

Question: What is the difference between the UniFi Switch and the
EdgeSwitch?

-derek
Post by Kyle Brieden
I suppose I could have been more clear. I was not so much
recommending the specific gear I have as I was recommending Ubiquiti
as a brand, and noting the gear that I have as anecdotal evidence to
support my recommendation. If you've already got high enough density
switching infrastructure, don't change it for sake of having all your
gear be the same brand. Network gear is network gear, and it all
plays nice together... more or less, anyway. But Ubiquiti gear is, in
my experience, far less expensive than comparably featured, supported,
and classed gear from damn near any other manufacturer.
24 port managed PoE - $365 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-Switch-Managed-US-24-250W/dp/B00OJZUQ24/
24 port managed PoE - $385 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeSwitch-ES-24-250W-24-Ports-Managed/dp/B00LV8Z2V2/
24 port managed PoE - $305 -
https://www.amazon.com/Cisco-SG200-26P-Ethernet-Mini-GBIC-SLM2024PT/dp/B004GHMU5Q/
24 port managed - $215 -
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-GS724Tv4-24-Port-Lifetime-Protection/dp/B00I5W5EGA/
24 port managed - $193 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-24-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01LZBLO0U/
24 port managed - $185 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Edgeswitch-Gigabit-ES-24-LITE/dp/B013Z21ZJE/
There's lots of range and options, I was simply saying that I
recommend Ubiquiti. Their support is incredibly helpful and
knowledgeable (in my experience with them), their gear is high quality
and easy to deploy, and I've been happy with the products I've
purchased to date.
---
Very respectfully,
Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Jim,
Yes, I know the US-24-500W is a 24-port switch. Kyle recommended an
8-port, which doesn't help me.
The PoE switch is, as I just said, for my PoE IP Camera network. My main
network is separate. I cannot leverage any open ports on this switch for
my main network (and I doubt the IP cameras suppose VLANs).
I've already got a Cisco SG200-50 for my main switch. For the few
additional PoE devices I have (currently: 2) I can just use standard PoE
power injectors. They cost $17 each, which is much less than the
additional cost of a PoE capable switch. So if I need to add a second AP,
I'll happily pay another $17 vs having to spend an additional
$100-200 for
a (second) PoE-capable switch.
I would also prefer to limit the number of switches if I can to limit the
required cross-connects (which of course become bottlenecks).
-derek
Post by Jim Kinney
That's a 24-port 1G PoE switch. It provides power to 24 downstream
devices like phones, small switches and with some hacking, systems.
That particular switch is pretty useful for being a gateway switch for
other Ubiquiti WAPs (most all run on PoE).
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO
-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505157073&sr=1-
1&keywords=ubiquiti%2BWAP&th=1
Due to a large, sheetmetal duct in the center of the house between
floors, there's a shadow in coverage that's not good. That $130 is a
low cost way to slap a second unit in the ceiling on the top floor to
fill in that shadow.
Just search Amazon for Ubiquiti. Lots of toys at very good prices.
Post by Derek Atkins
Kyle,
The Unifi US-24-500W is $523 on Amazon. How is that
"inexpensive"? I
said I needed 16-24 ports, so not sure how an 8-port helps me. I do admit
I didn't specify "rackmount" in my OP -- Mea Culpa. But I'd rather find
something more in the $200 range for that purpose (a physically private
network of IP security cameras).
Yes, I do have an Edgerouter for my main router, which replaced my
Routerboard because the RB750 couldn't keep up with my Gigapower network.
I mostly like it.
Honestly I kind of like my DAP-2660 AC1200 AP and see little reason to
switch. It's worked quite well for me.
Thanks,
-derek
Post by Kyle Brieden
EdgeOS, and absolutely LOVE my ubiquity gear. I got the Unifi 8 port
PoE switch, Unifi Security Gateway, and the WAP that support 802.11ac.
It has literally changed my home networking. Can't recommend it enough.
I got all 3 of those seriously high grade boxes for about the same
price you pay for a consumer router that supports 802.11ac.
HIGHLY recommend.
+1
---
Very respectfully,
Kyle Brieden
Post by Jim Kinney
com>
Post by Derek Atkins
Jim,
Post by Jim Kinney
10G multimode with lc connectors.
is it "easy" to build these? Are there LC connector keystone jacks
available?
Post by Jim Kinney
Unless you _really_ are forward looking and install 100G.
OM3 fiber looks like it will get to 40/100G
Post by Jim Kinney
Otherwise install conduit and spare pull strings. That really
future-proofs an install.
I would plan for a 1" conduit with a single cat6, one rg6, one low
voltage
Post by Jim Kinney
line (music) and a pull string.
I'm not sure this is REALLY an option for me.I feel it is
certainly a
more
expensive option vs just running a bunch of cables now.
Post by Jim Kinney
Spend money on a distribution center that all these lines start from.
Good
Post by Jim Kinney
10G switch, powered cable splitter, good remote adjustable amp for
music
Post by Jim Kinney
control.
Yes. My current house has a 96-port RJ45 patch panel (2/3
full). I
would
definitely repeat that. Similar with audio -- I've got a 6-
zone amp
(although I dont think my current one is remotely adjustable --
but I
just
adjust via iTunes).
I'm still researching TV/HDMI distribution systems....
Oh, and trying to find a good 16-24-port PoE (10/)100/1000 switch.
Look at Ubiquity. They have a selection of PoE switches in various
port counts and rather affordable pricing. I've got a WAP and a 16
port 10G switch from them. Pretty happy with both. Control software is
closed source. Hardware looks like it may run the open switch software
whose name escapes me.
Post by Derek Atkins
-derek
Post by Jim Kinney
fp.com>
Post by Derek Atkins
Hi Alers,
If you had the ability to future-proof your house (imagine open
studs,
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
so you could run anything you wanted), what would you
run. Assume a
max
of 6 cables per drop?
Last time I ran 4x Cat6A and 2x RG6. However I'm never
using both
RG6
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
F-connectors, so I figured I could replace that with
something else.
And before you ask, yes, I *AM* using all 4 RJ45 connectors
in some
of
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
my drops (and in one place I wish I had MORE Rj45). So,
what else
should I run?
My current theory is 4x Cat6A, 1x RG6, and 1x Fiber.
However I'm not sure what kind of "fiber" to run, nor what
kind of
connector I should use.
Any suggestions or recommendations?
-derek
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
Computer and Internet Security Consultant
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
--
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. All tyopes are thumb
related
Post by Jim Kinney
and reflect authenticity.
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
***@ihtfp.com www.ihtfp.com
Computer and Internet Security Consultant
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
***@ale.org
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
Jerald Sheets
2017-09-12 13:25:58 UTC
Permalink
Due to a large, sheetmetal duct in the center of the house between floors,
Residential plenum chamber?

:-D

—jms
Jim Kinney
2017-09-12 13:39:51 UTC
Permalink
Pretty much. And all the seams leak air. So that joist bay is coolest or warmest point in the house.

We paid a contractor to upgrade our furnace and seal and insulate the duct runs to improve our efficiency. Apparently they didn't seal the joints but just insulated and foil taped the insulation. When the air is on, the insulation jackets puff up.

It's better than before only by tape. We used to keep the vents closed in the basement in winter. All the leaks kept it warm enough. Now we have adjust the vents.
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Jim Kinney
Due to a large, sheetmetal duct in the center of the house between
floors,
Residential plenum chamber?
:-D
—jms
--
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. All tyopes are thumb related and reflect authenticity.
Lightner, Jeffrey
2017-09-12 13:49:33 UTC
Permalink
Network gear doesn’t always play nice together. What’s worse is when you have issues the manufactures are apt to say “everything on our side is OK, it must be that other manufacture’s product”. Of course the other manufacturer says exactly the same thing.

There is some benefit in having the same brand for all your network devices.



From: ale-***@ale.org [mailto:ale-***@ale.org] On Behalf Of Jim Kinney
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2017 9:40 AM
To: Atlanta Linux Enthusiasts; Jerald Sheets
Subject: Re: [ale] Future-proofing a house for networking -- what to run?

Pretty much. And all the seams leak air. So that joist bay is coolest or warmest point in the house.

We paid a contractor to upgrade our furnace and seal and insulate the duct runs to improve our efficiency. Apparently they didn't seal the joints but just insulated and foil taped the insulation. When the air is on, the insulation jackets puff up.

It's better than before only by tape. We used to keep the vents closed in the basement in winter. All the leaks kept it warm enough. Now we have adjust the vents.
On September 12, 2017 9:25:58 AM EDT, Jerald Sheets <***@gmail.com<mailto:***@gmail.com>> wrote:



On Sep 11, 2017, at 3:16 PM, Jim Kinney <***@gmail.com<mailto:***@gmail.com>> wrote:


Due to a large, sheetmetal duct in the center of the house between floors,

Residential plenum chamber?

:-D

—jms
--
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. All tyopes are thumb related and reflect authenticity.
Jim Kinney
2017-09-12 13:55:33 UTC
Permalink
I've seen that especially with high end, expensive gear (I'm looking at you, Cisco).

I would almost bet $$$ they have code that says " if cisco max-speed true, else screwed true".
Post by Lightner, Jeffrey
Network gear doesn’t always play nice together. What’s worse is when
you have issues the manufactures are apt to say “everything on our side
is OK, it must be that other manufacture’s product”. Of course the
other manufacturer says exactly the same thing.
There is some benefit in having the same brand for all your network devices.
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2017 9:40 AM
To: Atlanta Linux Enthusiasts; Jerald Sheets
Subject: Re: [ale] Future-proofing a house for networking -- what to run?
Pretty much. And all the seams leak air. So that joist bay is coolest
or warmest point in the house.
We paid a contractor to upgrade our furnace and seal and insulate the
duct runs to improve our efficiency. Apparently they didn't seal the
joints but just insulated and foil taped the insulation. When the air
is on, the insulation jackets puff up.
It's better than before only by tape. We used to keep the vents closed
in the basement in winter. All the leaks kept it warm enough. Now we
have adjust the vents.
On September 12, 2017 9:25:58 AM EDT, Jerald Sheets
On Sep 11, 2017, at 3:16 PM, Jim Kinney
Due to a large, sheetmetal duct in the center of the house between floors,
Residential plenum chamber?
:-D
—jms
--
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. All tyopes are thumb related
and reflect authenticity.
--
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. All tyopes are thumb related and reflect authenticity.
Phil Turmel
2017-09-11 14:03:51 UTC
Permalink
Hi Derek,

I haven't had fully open studs to work with, but an unfinished basement
and an attic will do if you are willing to play with flexible drill
bits. I've put a fair number of circuits in my house.
Post by Derek Atkins
Hi Alers,
If you had the ability to future-proof your house (imagine open studs,
so you could run anything you wanted), what would you run. Assume a max
of 6 cables per drop?
I tend to run 2x LAN, one primary, one backup. Two RG6/quad-shield, one
to attic for broadcast or dish duty, one to ground level nexus for cable
company.

Future installs will include a DC power connector routed to my UPS so I
can efficiently keep a few circuits alive even when the UPS is "off".

For the entertainment center location, I added fiber for digital audio,
two USB circuits, two HDMI circuits, and a headphone jack. All of these
routed to the basement media server.
Post by Derek Atkins
Last time I ran 4x Cat6A and 2x RG6. However I'm never using both RG6
F-connectors, so I figured I could replace that with something else.
And before you ask, yes, I *AM* using all 4 RJ45 connectors in some of
my drops (and in one place I wish I had MORE Rj45). So, what else
should I run?
Consider learning to use VLANs so you don't have to waste so much
infrastructure on additional LAN cables. Linux supports it out of the
box and small VLAN capable switches are relatively cheap.
Post by Derek Atkins
However I'm not sure what kind of "fiber" to run, nor what kind of
connector I should use.
Digital audio has a standardized connector for AES and ADAT technologies.

Phil
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Derek Atkins
2017-09-11 14:35:08 UTC
Permalink
Hi Phil,
Post by Phil Turmel
Hi Derek,
I haven't had fully open studs to work with, but an unfinished basement
and an attic will do if you are willing to play with flexible drill
bits. I've put a fair number of circuits in my house.
Indeed. In this case there is going to be some major renovation and new
construction so I'll have generally easy access, I think. I probably wont
know for sure for a couple months.
Post by Phil Turmel
Post by Derek Atkins
Hi Alers,
If you had the ability to future-proof your house (imagine open studs,
so you could run anything you wanted), what would you run. Assume a max
of 6 cables per drop?
I tend to run 2x LAN, one primary, one backup. Two RG6/quad-shield, one
to attic for broadcast or dish duty, one to ground level nexus for cable
company.
Note that I meant "per drop". In my current house I have 16 drops
throughout the house. I neglected to add that I also ran 2x RG6 to my
attic and also 2xRG6 + 1xCat6A to my exterior PoP (for cable, etc). I'm
less concerned about runs from nexus to attic -- I can run conduit for
THAT run. But it's to each of the drops that I'm trying to plan out.
Bedrooms, media rooms, offices, etc. Any place I might want to put a TV
or Computer.
Post by Phil Turmel
Future installs will include a DC power connector routed to my UPS so I
can efficiently keep a few circuits alive even when the UPS is "off".
Hmm...
Post by Phil Turmel
For the entertainment center location, I added fiber for digital audio,
two USB circuits, two HDMI circuits, and a headphone jack. All of these
routed to the basement media server.
Post by Derek Atkins
Last time I ran 4x Cat6A and 2x RG6. However I'm never using both RG6
F-connectors, so I figured I could replace that with something else.
And before you ask, yes, I *AM* using all 4 RJ45 connectors in some of
my drops (and in one place I wish I had MORE Rj45). So, what else
should I run?
Consider learning to use VLANs so you don't have to waste so much
infrastructure on additional LAN cables. Linux supports it out of the
box and small VLAN capable switches are relatively cheap.
Yes, but then I have to power those switches with a UPS to keep them
alive. Also, in many cases (like in my office), my phone is on PoE which
means it needs its own drop. Honestly, a 1000' spool of Cat6A is only
$150. Sure, that's 3-4 mini routers, but I'd rather centralize my
switching/routing when possible. The multiple drops aren't for VLANS but
to minimize the switches I need throughout my house.
Post by Phil Turmel
Post by Derek Atkins
However I'm not sure what kind of "fiber" to run, nor what kind of
connector I should use.
Digital audio has a standardized connector for AES and ADAT technologies.
Yes, but I wasn't necessarily thinking just digital audio -- I was
thinking digital data (of which audio is one type of data) -- hence my
questions here to determine the best general solution.

Thanks,
Post by Phil Turmel
Phil
-derek
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
***@ihtfp.com www.ihtfp.com
Computer and Internet Security Consultant

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Joey Kelly
2017-09-11 15:17:53 UTC
Permalink
Post by Phil Turmel
Hi Derek,
I haven't had fully open studs to work with, but an unfinished basement
and an attic will do if you are willing to p
I have. Beware the sheetrock guys.

--Joey

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Jim Kinney
2017-09-11 16:25:53 UTC
Permalink
Rigid steel conduit is a great sheetrock screw deterrent! Otherwise use
the steel plate protection over the soft conduit stud hole.
Post by Joey Kelly
Post by Phil Turmel
Hi Derek,
I haven't had fully open studs to work with, but an unfinished basement
and an attic will do if you are willing to p
I have. Beware the sheetrock guys.
--Joey
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Pete Hardie
2017-09-11 16:31:46 UTC
Permalink
Post by Jim Kinney
Rigid steel conduit is a great sheetrock screw deterrent! Otherwise use
the steel plate protection over the soft conduit stud hole.
​Not in all cases.​


​About a year after I moved into my current house​, I walked into the
dining room and fund the carpet drenched. The powder room cold water line
had developed a leak. Post mortem determined that the baseboard installer
had punched a nail through the baseboard, the sheetrock, the metal
protective plate, and into the copper pipe. One year of rust later and
voila!
Post by Jim Kinney
Hi Derek,
I haven't had fully open studs to work with, but an unfinished basement
and an attic will do if you are willing to p
I have. Beware the sheetrock guys.
--Joey
_______________________________________________
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists athttp://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
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See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
--
Pete Hardie
--------
Better Living Through Bitmaps
Jim Kinney
2017-09-11 17:00:56 UTC
Permalink
OUCH!!!!
Yeah. That's why conduit behind the baseboard is a bad idea. 2"
finishing nail from an air nailer and it's lights out.
The typical height for a power socket works as does 6-12" above them.
That avoids most normal plumbing installs, water, sewer, gas, and HVAC.
Post by Pete Hardie
Post by Jim Kinney
Rigid steel conduit is a great sheetrock screw deterrent! Otherwise
use the steel plate protection over the soft conduit stud hole.
Not in all cases.
About a year after I moved into my current house, I walked into the
dining room and fund the carpet drenched. The powder room cold water
line had developed a leak. Post mortem determined that the baseboard
installer had punched a nail through the baseboard, the sheetrock,
the metal protective plate, and into the copper pipe. One year of
rust later and voila!
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Joey Kelly
Post by Phil Turmel
Hi Derek,
I haven't had fully open studs to work with, but an unfinished basement
and an attic will do if you are willing to p
I have. Beware the sheetrock guys.
--Joey
_______________________________________________
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Pete Hardie
2017-09-11 17:25:57 UTC
Permalink
Post by Jim Kinney
OUCH!!!!
Yeah. That's why conduit behind the baseboard is a bad idea. 2" finishing
nail from an air nailer and it's lights out.
The typical height for a power socket works as does 6-12" above them. That
avoids most normal plumbing installs, water, sewer, gas, and HVAC.
​But if you are moving up/down, you gotta cross the floor somewhere
​
Post by Jim Kinney
Rigid steel conduit is a great sheetrock screw deterrent! Otherwise use
the steel plate protection over the soft conduit stud hole.
Not in all cases.
About a year after I moved into my current house, I walked into the dining
room and fund the carpet drenched. The powder room cold water line had
developed a leak. Post mortem determined that the baseboard installer had
punched a nail through the baseboard, the sheetrock, the metal protective
plate, and into the copper pipe. One year of rust later and voila!
Hi Derek,
I haven't had fully open studs to work with, but an unfinished basement
and an attic will do if you are willing to p
I have. Beware the sheetrock guys.
--Joey
_______________________________________________
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists athttp://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
_______________________________________________
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists athttp://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
--
Pete Hardie
--------
Better Living Through Bitmaps
Jeremy T. Bouse
2017-09-11 14:47:44 UTC
Permalink
For myself I'm working to simply put the low-voltage flexible orange
conduit through the walls so that I can then run whatever I want through
it now and down the road can pull whatever I need to later through the
conduit without having to open the walls again.
Post by Derek Atkins
Hi Alers,
If you had the ability to future-proof your house (imagine open studs,
so you could run anything you wanted), what would you run. Assume a max
of 6 cables per drop?
Last time I ran 4x Cat6A and 2x RG6. However I'm never using both RG6
F-connectors, so I figured I could replace that with something else.
And before you ask, yes, I *AM* using all 4 RJ45 connectors in some of
my drops (and in one place I wish I had MORE Rj45). So, what else
should I run?
My current theory is 4x Cat6A, 1x RG6, and 1x Fiber.
However I'm not sure what kind of "fiber" to run, nor what kind of
connector I should use.
Any suggestions or recommendations?
-derek
Joey Kelly
2017-09-11 16:44:49 UTC
Permalink
You future proof by running large diameter conduit to each of the drops.
Then you can pull anything you need in the future.
And if you use a normal-sized conduit, I am expert at shoving one too many
wires through the teeny little pipe. Call me.

--Joey
Post by Derek Atkins
Hi Alers,
If you had the ability to future-proof your house (imagine open studs,
so you could run anything you wanted), what would you run. Assume a max
of 6 cables per drop?
Last time I ran 4x Cat6A and 2x RG6. However I'm never using both RG6
F-connectors, so I figured I could replace that with something else.
And before you ask, yes, I *AM* using all 4 RJ45 connectors in some of
my drops (and in one place I wish I had MORE Rj45). So, what else
should I run?
My current theory is 4x Cat6A, 1x RG6, and 1x Fiber.
However I'm not sure what kind of "fiber" to run, nor what kind of
connector I should use.
Any suggestions or recommendations?
-derek
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
--
Joey Kelly
Minister of the Gospel and Linux Consultant
http://joeykelly.net
504-239-6550
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
***@ale.org
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See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
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Solomon Peachy
2017-09-12 01:12:48 UTC
Permalink
Post by Derek Atkins
If you had the ability to future-proof your house (imagine open studs,
so you could run anything you wanted), what would you run. Assume a max
of 6 cables per drop?
I'm wiring a house right now.

I'm running at least a pair of cat6 to each room to a PoE-enabled 1Gbps
switch, plus a pair to every place a TV, camera, or access point will
sit. That wiring will be able to handle the 2.5/5G over copper just
fine once the equipment becomes affordable.

I also have conduit in the ground between all outbuildings, and they
will end up with at least a pair of cat6 and whatever is the cheapest
fiber bundle I can get. (due to the economics of fiber, it's often
cheaper to get multi-pair bundles than single-pair..)

I probably won't even bother terminating it until there's some need,
neatly sidestepping the question of connectors etc to use, as that
depends a lot on the equipment you're going to run.

- Solomon
--
Solomon Peachy pizza at shaftnet dot org
Delray Beach, FL ^^ (email/xmpp) ^^
Quidquid latine dictum sit, altum videtur.
Scott Plante
2017-09-12 15:47:16 UTC
Permalink
My understanding is that the UniFi uses a centralized management software while the EdgeSwitch uses a local individual web/ssh management interface. It used to be you had more flexibility with the ssh command line interface but they have been releasing new iterations of the UniFi control software so that may not be true so much anymore.



We just ordered a 48 port EdgeSwitch, Amazon Warehouse scratch-and-dent to save money. Supposedly only had a scratched finish on the back but turned out to be DOA. Fans would run but no lights and no switching. The full price version wasn't prime, and we already have a Ubiquity wi-fi using the management software, so I ordered the UniFi 48-port switch--supposed to be here Wednesday.


For the UniFi, you can buy a small device (is it a RPi inside?) that has it running, or install it somewhere locally. At least for the hotspot, there's no way to administer the device directly, if I remember correctly.


https://hub.docker.com/r/jacobalberty/unifi/
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Cloud-Key-Control/dp/B017T2QB22/
--
Scott Plante

----- Original Message -----

From: "Derek Atkins" <***@ihtfp.com>
To: "Kyle Brieden" <***@txmoose.com>
Cc: ***@ale.org, "Jim Kinney" <***@gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2017 11:09:20 AM
Subject: Re: [ale] Future-proofing a house for networking -- what to run?

Kyle,

Thanks for the info. I must applogize to you -- I read your reply
before seeing the one to which you were replying.

The cameras I plan to get require 12W each (well, the power supply they
come with is a 12V 1A power supply -- so I'm ASSUMING that it will want
to draw 12W from PoE). This means that the 250W swich can only support
20 cameras (which *MAY* be sufficient). So that would certainly save
~$200 versus the -500W version. On the other hand part of that 250W
probably needs to power the router itself, so it's probably fewer
cameras than that. So I might still need to go to the 500W version for
$523.

The Cisco you list below only has 12 PoE ports, which isn't sufficient.

Question: What is the difference between the UniFi Switch and the
EdgeSwitch?

-derek
I suppose I could have been more clear. I was not so much
recommending the specific gear I have as I was recommending Ubiquiti
as a brand, and noting the gear that I have as anecdotal evidence to
support my recommendation. If you've already got high enough density
switching infrastructure, don't change it for sake of having all your
gear be the same brand. Network gear is network gear, and it all
plays nice together... more or less, anyway. But Ubiquiti gear is, in
my experience, far less expensive than comparably featured, supported,
and classed gear from damn near any other manufacturer.
24 port managed PoE - $365 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-Switch-Managed-US-24-250W/dp/B00OJZUQ24/
24 port managed PoE - $385 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeSwitch-ES-24-250W-24-Ports-Managed/dp/B00LV8Z2V2/
24 port managed PoE - $305 -
https://www.amazon.com/Cisco-SG200-26P-Ethernet-Mini-GBIC-SLM2024PT/dp/B004GHMU5Q/
24 port managed - $215 -
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-GS724Tv4-24-Port-Lifetime-Protection/dp/B00I5W5EGA/
24 port managed - $193 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-24-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01LZBLO0U/
24 port managed - $185 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Edgeswitch-Gigabit-ES-24-LITE/dp/B013Z21ZJE/
There's lots of range and options, I was simply saying that I
recommend Ubiquiti. Their support is incredibly helpful and
knowledgeable (in my experience with them), their gear is high quality
and easy to deploy, and I've been happy with the products I've
purchased to date.
---
Very respectfully,
Kyle Brieden
Jim,
Yes, I know the US-24-500W is a 24-port switch. Kyle recommended an
8-port, which doesn't help me.
The PoE switch is, as I just said, for my PoE IP Camera network. My
main
network is separate. I cannot leverage any open ports on this
switch for
my main network (and I doubt the IP cameras suppose VLANs).
I've already got a Cisco SG200-50 for my main switch. For the few
additional PoE devices I have (currently: 2) I can just use standard
PoE
power injectors. They cost $17 each, which is much less than the
additional cost of a PoE capable switch. So if I need to add a
second AP,
I'll happily pay another $17 vs having to spend an additional
$100-200 for
a (second) PoE-capable switch.
I would also prefer to limit the number of switches if I can to
limit the
required cross-connects (which of course become bottlenecks).
-derek
Post by Jim Kinney
That's a 24-port 1G PoE switch. It provides power to 24 downstream
devices like phones, small switches and with some hacking, systems.
That particular switch is pretty useful for being a gateway switch for
other Ubiquiti WAPs (most all run on PoE).
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO
-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505157073&sr=1-
1&keywords=ubiquiti%2BWAP&th=1
Due to a large, sheetmetal duct in the center of the house between
floors, there's a shadow in coverage that's not good. That $130 is a
low cost way to slap a second unit in the ceiling on the top floor to
fill in that shadow.
Just search Amazon for Ubiquiti. Lots of toys at very good prices.
Kyle,
The Unifi US-24-500W is $523 on Amazon. How is that
"inexpensive"? I
said I needed 16-24 ports, so not sure how an 8-port helps me. I do
admit
I didn't specify "rackmount" in my OP -- Mea Culpa. But I'd rather
find
something more in the $200 range for that purpose (a physically
private
network of IP security cameras).
Yes, I do have an Edgerouter for my main router, which replaced my
Routerboard because the RB750 couldn't keep up with my Gigapower
network.
I mostly like it.
Honestly I kind of like my DAP-2660 AC1200 AP and see little reason
to
switch. It's worked quite well for me.
Thanks,
-derek
EdgeOS, and absolutely LOVE my ubiquity gear. I got the Unifi 8
port
PoE switch, Unifi Security Gateway, and the WAP that support
802.11ac.
It has literally changed my home networking. Can't recommend it
enough.
I got all 3 of those seriously high grade boxes for about the
same
price you pay for a consumer router that supports 802.11ac.
HIGHLY recommend.
+1
---
Very respectfully,
Kyle Brieden
Post by Jim Kinney
com>
Jim,
Post by Jim Kinney
10G multimode with lc connectors.
is it "easy" to build these? Are there LC connector keystone
jacks
available?
Post by Jim Kinney
Unless you _really_ are forward looking and install 100G.
OM3 fiber looks like it will get to 40/100G
Post by Jim Kinney
Otherwise install conduit and spare pull strings. That really
future-proofs an install.
I would plan for a 1" conduit with a single cat6, one rg6,
one low
voltage
Post by Jim Kinney
line (music) and a pull string.
I'm not sure this is REALLY an option for me.I feel it is
certainly a
more
expensive option vs just running a bunch of cables now.
Post by Jim Kinney
Spend money on a distribution center that all these lines
start from.
Good
Post by Jim Kinney
10G switch, powered cable splitter, good remote adjustable
amp for
music
Post by Jim Kinney
control.
Yes. My current house has a 96-port RJ45 patch panel (2/3
full). I
would
definitely repeat that. Similar with audio -- I've got a 6-
zone amp
(although I dont think my current one is remotely adjustable --
but I
just
adjust via iTunes).
I'm still researching TV/HDMI distribution systems....
Oh, and trying to find a good 16-24-port PoE (10/)100/1000
switch.
Look at Ubiquity. They have a selection of PoE switches in
various
port counts and rather affordable pricing. I've got a WAP and a
16
port 10G switch from them. Pretty happy with both. Control
software is
closed source. Hardware looks like it may run the open switch
software
whose name escapes me.
-derek
Post by Jim Kinney
fp.com>
Post by Derek Atkins
Hi Alers,
If you had the ability to future-proof your house (imagine
open
studs,
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
so you could run anything you wanted), what would you
run. Assume a
max
of 6 cables per drop?
Last time I ran 4x Cat6A and 2x RG6. However I'm never
using both
RG6
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
F-connectors, so I figured I could replace that with
something else.
And before you ask, yes, I *AM* using all 4 RJ45 connectors
in some
of
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
my drops (and in one place I wish I had MORE Rj45). So,
what else
should I run?
My current theory is 4x Cat6A, 1x RG6, and 1x Fiber.
However I'm not sure what kind of "fiber" to run, nor what
kind of
connector I should use.
Any suggestions or recommendations?
-derek
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
Computer and Internet Security Consultant
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
--
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. All tyopes are
thumb
related
Post by Jim Kinney
and reflect authenticity.
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
***@ihtfp.com www.ihtfp.com
Computer and Internet Security Consultant
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
***@ale.org
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
Jim Kinney
2017-09-12 16:38:04 UTC
Permalink
Cool new toy from Ubiquiti:
https://inwall.ubnt.com/
puts an AC WAP in a wall plate that has dual 1G ethernet with PoE. And
_still_ has an external PoE 1G port and a non-powered 1G port
Post by Scott Plante
My understanding is that the UniFi uses a centralized management
software while the EdgeSwitch uses a local individual web/ssh
management interface. It used to be you had more flexibility with the
ssh command line interface but they have been releasing new
iterations of the UniFi control software so that may not be true so
much anymore.
We just ordered a 48 port EdgeSwitch, Amazon Warehouse scratch-and-
dent to save money. Supposedly only had a scratched finish on the
back but turned out to be DOA. Fans would run but no lights and no
switching. The full price version wasn't prime, and we already have a
Ubiquity wi-fi using the management software, so I ordered the UniFi
48-port switch--supposed to be here Wednesday.
For the UniFi, you can buy a small device (is it a RPi inside?) that
has it running, or install it somewhere locally. At least for the
hotspot, there's no way to administer the device directly, if I
remember correctly.
https://hub.docker.com/r/jacobalberty/unifi/
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Cloud-Key-Control/dp/B017T2QB22
/
--
Scott Plante
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2017 11:09:20 AM
Subject: Re: [ale] Future-proofing a house for networking -- what to run?
Kyle,
Thanks for the info. I must applogize to you -- I read your reply
before seeing the one to which you were replying.
The cameras I plan to get require 12W each (well, the power supply they
come with is a 12V 1A power supply -- so I'm ASSUMING that it will want
to draw 12W from PoE). This means that the 250W swich can only
support
20 cameras (which *MAY* be sufficient). So that would certainly save
~$200 versus the -500W version. On the other hand part of that 250W
probably needs to power the router itself, so it's probably fewer
cameras than that. So I might still need to go to the 500W version
for
$523.
The Cisco you list below only has 12 PoE ports, which isn't
sufficient.
Question: What is the difference between the UniFi Switch and the
EdgeSwitch?
-derek
Post by Kyle Brieden
I suppose I could have been more clear. I was not so much
recommending the specific gear I have as I was recommending
Ubiquiti
Post by Kyle Brieden
as a brand, and noting the gear that I have as anecdotal evidence
to
Post by Kyle Brieden
support my recommendation. If you've already got high enough
density
Post by Kyle Brieden
switching infrastructure, don't change it for sake of having all
your
Post by Kyle Brieden
gear be the same brand. Network gear is network gear, and it all
plays nice together... more or less, anyway. But Ubiquiti gear is,
in
Post by Kyle Brieden
my experience, far less expensive than comparably featured,
supported,
Post by Kyle Brieden
and classed gear from damn near any other manufacturer.
24 port managed PoE - $365 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-Switch-Managed-US-24-250W/dp/
B00OJZUQ24/
Post by Kyle Brieden
24 port managed PoE - $385 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeSwitch-ES-24-250W-24-Ports-Mana
ged/dp/B00LV8Z2V2/
Post by Kyle Brieden
24 port managed PoE - $305 -
https://www.amazon.com/Cisco-SG200-26P-Ethernet-Mini-GBIC-SLM2024PT
/dp/B004GHMU5Q/
Post by Kyle Brieden
24 port managed - $215 -
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-GS724Tv4-24-Port-Lifetime-Protection
/dp/B00I5W5EGA/
Post by Kyle Brieden
24 port managed - $193 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-24-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01L
ZBLO0U/
Post by Kyle Brieden
24 port managed - $185 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Edgeswitch-Gigabit-ES-24-L
ITE/dp/B013Z21ZJE/
Post by Kyle Brieden
There's lots of range and options, I was simply saying that I
recommend Ubiquiti. Their support is incredibly helpful and
knowledgeable (in my experience with them), their gear is high
quality
Post by Kyle Brieden
and easy to deploy, and I've been happy with the products I've
purchased to date.
---
Very respectfully,
Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Jim,
Yes, I know the US-24-500W is a 24-port switch. Kyle recommended
an
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
8-port, which doesn't help me.
The PoE switch is, as I just said, for my PoE IP Camera network.
My
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
main
network is separate. I cannot leverage any open ports on this
switch for
my main network (and I doubt the IP cameras suppose VLANs).
I've already got a Cisco SG200-50 for my main switch. For the few
additional PoE devices I have (currently: 2) I can just use
standard
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
PoE
power injectors. They cost $17 each, which is much less than the
additional cost of a PoE capable switch. So if I need to add a
second AP,
I'll happily pay another $17 vs having to spend an additional
$100-200 for
a (second) PoE-capable switch.
I would also prefer to limit the number of switches if I can to
limit the
required cross-connects (which of course become bottlenecks).
-derek
Post by Jim Kinney
That's a 24-port 1G PoE switch. It provides power to 24
downstream
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
devices like phones, small switches and with some hacking,
systems.
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
That particular switch is pretty useful for being a gateway
switch for
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
other Ubiquiti WAPs (most all run on PoE).
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-
AC-PRO
-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505157073&sr=
1-
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
1&keywords=ubiquiti%2BWAP&th=1
Due to a large, sheetmetal duct in the center of the house
between
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
floors, there's a shadow in coverage that's not good. That $130
is a
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
low cost way to slap a second unit in the ceiling on the top
floor to
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
fill in that shadow.
Just search Amazon for Ubiquiti. Lots of toys at very good
prices.
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Kyle,
The Unifi US-24-500W is $523 on Amazon. How is that
"inexpensive"? I
said I needed 16-24 ports, so not sure how an 8-port helps me.
I do
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
admit
I didn't specify "rackmount" in my OP -- Mea Culpa. But I'd
rather
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
find
something more in the $200 range for that purpose (a physically
private
network of IP security cameras).
Yes, I do have an Edgerouter for my main router, which replaced
my
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Routerboard because the RB750 couldn't keep up with my Gigapower
network.
I mostly like it.
Honestly I kind of like my DAP-2660 AC1200 AP and see little
reason
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
to
switch. It's worked quite well for me.
Thanks,
-derek
Post by Kyle Brieden
EdgeOS, and absolutely LOVE my ubiquity gear. I got the
Unifi 8
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
port
PoE switch, Unifi Security Gateway, and the WAP that support
802.11ac.
It has literally changed my home networking. Can't recommend
it
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
enough.
I got all 3 of those seriously high grade boxes for about
the
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
same
price you pay for a consumer router that supports 802.11ac.
HIGHLY recommend.
+1
---
Very respectfully,
Kyle Brieden
htfp.
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Jim Kinney
com>
Post by Derek Atkins
Jim,
Post by Jim Kinney
10G multimode with lc connectors.
is it "easy" to build these? Are there LC connector
keystone
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
jacks
available?
Post by Jim Kinney
Unless you _really_ are forward looking and install
100G.
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
OM3 fiber looks like it will get to 40/100G
Post by Jim Kinney
Otherwise install conduit and spare pull strings. That
really
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
future-proofs an install.
I would plan for a 1" conduit with a single cat6, one
rg6,
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
one low
voltage
Post by Jim Kinney
line (music) and a pull string.
I'm not sure this is REALLY an option for me.I feel it is
certainly a
more
expensive option vs just running a bunch of cables now.
Post by Jim Kinney
Spend money on a distribution center that all these
lines
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
start from.
Good
Post by Jim Kinney
10G switch, powered cable splitter, good remote
adjustable
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
amp for
music
Post by Jim Kinney
control.
Yes. My current house has a 96-port RJ45 patch panel (2/3
full). I
would
definitely repeat that. Similar with audio -- I've got a
6-
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
zone amp
(although I dont think my current one is remotely
adjustable --
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
but I
just
adjust via iTunes).
I'm still researching TV/HDMI distribution systems....
Oh, and trying to find a good 16-24-port PoE (10/)100/1000
switch.
Look at Ubiquity. They have a selection of PoE switches in
various
port counts and rather affordable pricing. I've got a WAP
and a
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Jim Kinney
16
port 10G switch from them. Pretty happy with both. Control
software is
closed source. Hardware looks like it may run the open
switch
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Jim Kinney
software
whose name escapes me.
Post by Derek Atkins
-derek
Post by Jim Kinney
On September 11, 2017 9:33:47 AM EDT, Derek Atkins <dere
fp.com>
Post by Derek Atkins
Hi Alers,
If you had the ability to future-proof your house
(imagine
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
open
studs,
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
so you could run anything you wanted), what would you
run. Assume a
max
of 6 cables per drop?
Last time I ran 4x Cat6A and 2x RG6. However I'm
never
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
using both
RG6
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
F-connectors, so I figured I could replace that with
something else.
And before you ask, yes, I *AM* using all 4 RJ45
connectors
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
in some
of
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
my drops (and in one place I wish I had MORE Rj45).
So,
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
what else
should I run?
My current theory is 4x Cat6A, 1x RG6, and 1x Fiber.
However I'm not sure what kind of "fiber" to run, nor
what
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
kind of
connector I should use.
Any suggestions or recommendations?
-derek
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
Computer and Internet Security Consultant
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
--
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. All tyopes
are
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
thumb
related
Post by Jim Kinney
and reflect authenticity.
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
Kyle Brieden
2017-09-12 19:28:46 UTC
Permalink
This is mostly correct. The UniFi devices still run EdgeOS and can be
managed via SSH as well. The problem is that any changes you make don't
get propagated UP to the controller, so they will be lost if a
controller provisions the devices. There's also instances of devices
losing configuration on reboot, thus requiring a controller to provision
them on reboot for continuity.

There's methods around that, but I like the controller (which I run on a
VM here), so I didn't get into those.

---
Very respectfully,
Kyle Brieden
Post by Scott Plante
My understanding is that the UniFi uses a centralized management
software while the EdgeSwitch uses a local individual web/ssh
management interface. It used to be you had more flexibility with the
ssh command line interface but they have been releasing new iterations
of the UniFi control software so that may not be true so much anymore.
We just ordered a 48 port EdgeSwitch, Amazon Warehouse
scratch-and-dent to save money. Supposedly only had a scratched finish
on the back but turned out to be DOA. Fans would run but no lights and
no switching. The full price version wasn't prime, and we already have
a Ubiquity wi-fi using the management software, so I ordered the UniFi
48-port switch--supposed to be here Wednesday.
For the UniFi, you can buy a small device (is it a RPi inside?) that
has it running, or install it somewhere locally. At least for the
hotspot, there's no way to administer the device directly, if I
remember correctly.
https://hub.docker.com/r/jacobalberty/unifi/
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Cloud-Key-Control/dp/B017T2QB22/
--
Scott Plante
-------------------------
SENT: Tuesday, September 12, 2017 11:09:20 AM
SUBJECT: Re: [ale] Future-proofing a house for networking -- what to
run?
Kyle,
Thanks for the info. I must applogize to you -- I read your reply
before seeing the one to which you were replying.
The cameras I plan to get require 12W each (well, the power supply they
come with is a 12V 1A power supply -- so I'm ASSUMING that it will want
to draw 12W from PoE). This means that the 250W swich can only
support
20 cameras (which *MAY* be sufficient). So that would certainly save
~$200 versus the -500W version. On the other hand part of that 250W
probably needs to power the router itself, so it's probably fewer
cameras than that. So I might still need to go to the 500W version
for
$523.
The Cisco you list below only has 12 PoE ports, which isn't
sufficient.
Question: What is the difference between the UniFi Switch and the
EdgeSwitch?
-derek
Post by Kyle Brieden
I suppose I could have been more clear. I was not so much
recommending the specific gear I have as I was recommending Ubiquiti
as a brand, and noting the gear that I have as anecdotal evidence to
support my recommendation. If you've already got high enough
density
Post by Kyle Brieden
switching infrastructure, don't change it for sake of having all
your
Post by Kyle Brieden
gear be the same brand. Network gear is network gear, and it all
plays nice together... more or less, anyway. But Ubiquiti gear is,
in
Post by Kyle Brieden
my experience, far less expensive than comparably featured,
supported,
Post by Kyle Brieden
and classed gear from damn near any other manufacturer.
24 port managed PoE - $365 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-Switch-Managed-US-24-250W/dp/B00OJZUQ24/
Post by Kyle Brieden
24 port managed PoE - $385 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeSwitch-ES-24-250W-24-Ports-Managed/dp/B00LV8Z2V2/
Post by Kyle Brieden
24 port managed PoE - $305 -
https://www.amazon.com/Cisco-SG200-26P-Ethernet-Mini-GBIC-SLM2024PT/dp/B004GHMU5Q/
Post by Kyle Brieden
24 port managed - $215 -
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-GS724Tv4-24-Port-Lifetime-Protection/dp/B00I5W5EGA/
Post by Kyle Brieden
24 port managed - $193 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-24-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01LZBLO0U/
Post by Kyle Brieden
24 port managed - $185 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Edgeswitch-Gigabit-ES-24-LITE/dp/B013Z21ZJE/
Post by Kyle Brieden
There's lots of range and options, I was simply saying that I
recommend Ubiquiti. Their support is incredibly helpful and
knowledgeable (in my experience with them), their gear is high
quality
Post by Kyle Brieden
and easy to deploy, and I've been happy with the products I've
purchased to date.
---
Very respectfully,
Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Jim,
Yes, I know the US-24-500W is a 24-port switch. Kyle recommended
an
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
8-port, which doesn't help me.
The PoE switch is, as I just said, for my PoE IP Camera network.
My
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
main
network is separate. I cannot leverage any open ports on this
switch for
my main network (and I doubt the IP cameras suppose VLANs).
I've already got a Cisco SG200-50 for my main switch. For the few
additional PoE devices I have (currently: 2) I can just use
standard
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
PoE
power injectors. They cost $17 each, which is much less than the
additional cost of a PoE capable switch. So if I need to add a
second AP,
I'll happily pay another $17 vs having to spend an additional
$100-200 for
a (second) PoE-capable switch.
I would also prefer to limit the number of switches if I can to
limit the
required cross-connects (which of course become bottlenecks).
-derek
Post by Jim Kinney
That's a 24-port 1G PoE switch. It provides power to 24 downstream
devices like phones, small switches and with some hacking,
systems.
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
That particular switch is pretty useful for being a gateway switch
for
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
other Ubiquiti WAPs (most all run on PoE).
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO
-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505157073&sr=1-
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
1&keywords=ubiquiti%2BWAP&th=1
Due to a large, sheetmetal duct in the center of the house between
floors, there's a shadow in coverage that's not good. That $130 is
a
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
low cost way to slap a second unit in the ceiling on the top floor
to
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
fill in that shadow.
Just search Amazon for Ubiquiti. Lots of toys at very good prices.
Post by Derek Atkins
Kyle,
The Unifi US-24-500W is $523 on Amazon. How is that
"inexpensive"? I
said I needed 16-24 ports, so not sure how an 8-port helps me. I
do
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
admit
I didn't specify "rackmount" in my OP -- Mea Culpa. But I'd
rather
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
find
something more in the $200 range for that purpose (a physically
private
network of IP security cameras).
Yes, I do have an Edgerouter for my main router, which replaced
my
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Routerboard because the RB750 couldn't keep up with my Gigapower
network.
I mostly like it.
Honestly I kind of like my DAP-2660 AC1200 AP and see little
reason
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
to
switch. It's worked quite well for me.
Thanks,
-derek
Post by Kyle Brieden
EdgeOS, and absolutely LOVE my ubiquity gear. I got the Unifi
8
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
port
PoE switch, Unifi Security Gateway, and the WAP that support
802.11ac.
It has literally changed my home networking. Can't recommend
it
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
enough.
I got all 3 of those seriously high grade boxes for about the
same
price you pay for a consumer router that supports 802.11ac.
HIGHLY recommend.
+1
---
Very respectfully,
Kyle Brieden
On September 11, 2017 10:04:42 AM EDT, Derek Atkins
com>
Post by Derek Atkins
Jim,
Post by Jim Kinney
10G multimode with lc connectors.
is it "easy" to build these? Are there LC connector
keystone
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
jacks
available?
Post by Jim Kinney
Unless you _really_ are forward looking and install 100G.
OM3 fiber looks like it will get to 40/100G
Post by Jim Kinney
Otherwise install conduit and spare pull strings. That
really
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
future-proofs an install.
I would plan for a 1" conduit with a single cat6, one
rg6,
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
one low
voltage
Post by Jim Kinney
line (music) and a pull string.
I'm not sure this is REALLY an option for me.I feel it is
certainly a
more
expensive option vs just running a bunch of cables now.
Post by Jim Kinney
Spend money on a distribution center that all these lines
start from.
Good
Post by Jim Kinney
10G switch, powered cable splitter, good remote
adjustable
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
amp for
music
Post by Jim Kinney
control.
Yes. My current house has a 96-port RJ45 patch panel (2/3
full). I
would
definitely repeat that. Similar with audio -- I've got a
6-
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
zone amp
(although I dont think my current one is remotely
adjustable --
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
but I
just
adjust via iTunes).
I'm still researching TV/HDMI distribution systems....
Oh, and trying to find a good 16-24-port PoE (10/)100/1000
switch.
Look at Ubiquity. They have a selection of PoE switches in
various
port counts and rather affordable pricing. I've got a WAP and
a
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
16
port 10G switch from them. Pretty happy with both. Control
software is
closed source. Hardware looks like it may run the open switch
software
whose name escapes me.
Post by Derek Atkins
-derek
Post by Jim Kinney
On September 11, 2017 9:33:47 AM EDT, Derek Atkins
fp.com>
Post by Derek Atkins
Hi Alers,
If you had the ability to future-proof your house
(imagine
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
open
studs,
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
so you could run anything you wanted), what would you
run. Assume a
max
of 6 cables per drop?
Last time I ran 4x Cat6A and 2x RG6. However I'm never
using both
RG6
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
F-connectors, so I figured I could replace that with
something else.
And before you ask, yes, I *AM* using all 4 RJ45
connectors
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
in some
of
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
my drops (and in one place I wish I had MORE Rj45).
So,
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
what else
should I run?
My current theory is 4x Cat6A, 1x RG6, and 1x Fiber.
However I'm not sure what kind of "fiber" to run, nor
what
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
kind of
connector I should use.
Any suggestions or recommendations?
-derek
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
Computer and Internet Security Consultant
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
--
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. All tyopes are
thumb
related
Post by Jim Kinney
and reflect authenticity.
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
Computer and Internet Security Consultant
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
Derek Atkins
2017-09-12 19:45:11 UTC
Permalink
This seems like it could be a bootstrap problem.. If the VM (I presume it
requires Windows?) runs on my laptop, but my laptop needs to either access
the 802.11 AP.. Or I suppose it needs to access the switch, but the
switch would need to already be working in order for my DHCP server to
respond...

I suppose if the only configuration that needs to be configured externally
would be special features, like LAG, then that's probably okay.

Losing its mind when it reboots is NOT okay. I have a TP-Link switch
right now that I had configured for LAG to my Cisco.. Every once in a
while the TP-Link would lose its mind and stop routing traffic across to
the Cisci. I know it's the TP and not the Cisco because I had to
re-configure the TP and re-enable the LAG config. Don't know what was up
with that, but I just decided that having a single 1G link that didn't
fail was better than a 2G LAG that would stop sending packets at random
times.

-derek
Post by Kyle Brieden
This is mostly correct. The UniFi devices still run EdgeOS and can be
managed via SSH as well. The problem is that any changes you make don't
get propagated UP to the controller, so they will be lost if a
controller provisions the devices. There's also instances of devices
losing configuration on reboot, thus requiring a controller to provision
them on reboot for continuity.
There's methods around that, but I like the controller (which I run on a
VM here), so I didn't get into those.
---
Very respectfully,
Kyle Brieden
Post by Scott Plante
My understanding is that the UniFi uses a centralized management
software while the EdgeSwitch uses a local individual web/ssh
management interface. It used to be you had more flexibility with the
ssh command line interface but they have been releasing new iterations
of the UniFi control software so that may not be true so much anymore.
We just ordered a 48 port EdgeSwitch, Amazon Warehouse
scratch-and-dent to save money. Supposedly only had a scratched finish
on the back but turned out to be DOA. Fans would run but no lights and
no switching. The full price version wasn't prime, and we already have
a Ubiquity wi-fi using the management software, so I ordered the UniFi
48-port switch--supposed to be here Wednesday.
For the UniFi, you can buy a small device (is it a RPi inside?) that
has it running, or install it somewhere locally. At least for the
hotspot, there's no way to administer the device directly, if I
remember correctly.
https://hub.docker.com/r/jacobalberty/unifi/
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Cloud-Key-Control/dp/B017T2QB22/
--
Scott Plante
-------------------------
SENT: Tuesday, September 12, 2017 11:09:20 AM
SUBJECT: Re: [ale] Future-proofing a house for networking -- what to
run?
Kyle,
Thanks for the info. I must applogize to you -- I read your reply
before seeing the one to which you were replying.
The cameras I plan to get require 12W each (well, the power supply they
come with is a 12V 1A power supply -- so I'm ASSUMING that it will want
to draw 12W from PoE). This means that the 250W swich can only
support
20 cameras (which *MAY* be sufficient). So that would certainly save
~$200 versus the -500W version. On the other hand part of that 250W
probably needs to power the router itself, so it's probably fewer
cameras than that. So I might still need to go to the 500W version
for
$523.
The Cisco you list below only has 12 PoE ports, which isn't
sufficient.
Question: What is the difference between the UniFi Switch and the
EdgeSwitch?
-derek
Post by Kyle Brieden
I suppose I could have been more clear. I was not so much
recommending the specific gear I have as I was recommending Ubiquiti
as a brand, and noting the gear that I have as anecdotal evidence to
support my recommendation. If you've already got high enough
density
Post by Kyle Brieden
switching infrastructure, don't change it for sake of having all
your
Post by Kyle Brieden
gear be the same brand. Network gear is network gear, and it all
plays nice together... more or less, anyway. But Ubiquiti gear is,
in
Post by Kyle Brieden
my experience, far less expensive than comparably featured,
supported,
Post by Kyle Brieden
and classed gear from damn near any other manufacturer.
24 port managed PoE - $365 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-Switch-Managed-US-24-250W/dp/B00OJZUQ24/
Post by Kyle Brieden
24 port managed PoE - $385 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeSwitch-ES-24-250W-24-Ports-Managed/dp/B00LV8Z2V2/
Post by Kyle Brieden
24 port managed PoE - $305 -
https://www.amazon.com/Cisco-SG200-26P-Ethernet-Mini-GBIC-SLM2024PT/dp/B004GHMU5Q/
Post by Kyle Brieden
24 port managed - $215 -
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-GS724Tv4-24-Port-Lifetime-Protection/dp/B00I5W5EGA/
Post by Kyle Brieden
24 port managed - $193 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-24-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01LZBLO0U/
Post by Kyle Brieden
24 port managed - $185 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Edgeswitch-Gigabit-ES-24-LITE/dp/B013Z21ZJE/
Post by Kyle Brieden
There's lots of range and options, I was simply saying that I
recommend Ubiquiti. Their support is incredibly helpful and
knowledgeable (in my experience with them), their gear is high
quality
Post by Kyle Brieden
and easy to deploy, and I've been happy with the products I've
purchased to date.
---
Very respectfully,
Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Jim,
Yes, I know the US-24-500W is a 24-port switch. Kyle recommended
an
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
8-port, which doesn't help me.
The PoE switch is, as I just said, for my PoE IP Camera network.
My
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
main
network is separate. I cannot leverage any open ports on this
switch for
my main network (and I doubt the IP cameras suppose VLANs).
I've already got a Cisco SG200-50 for my main switch. For the few
additional PoE devices I have (currently: 2) I can just use
standard
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
PoE
power injectors. They cost $17 each, which is much less than the
additional cost of a PoE capable switch. So if I need to add a
second AP,
I'll happily pay another $17 vs having to spend an additional
$100-200 for
a (second) PoE-capable switch.
I would also prefer to limit the number of switches if I can to
limit the
required cross-connects (which of course become bottlenecks).
-derek
Post by Jim Kinney
That's a 24-port 1G PoE switch. It provides power to 24 downstream
devices like phones, small switches and with some hacking,
systems.
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
That particular switch is pretty useful for being a gateway switch
for
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
other Ubiquiti WAPs (most all run on PoE).
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO
-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505157073&sr=1-
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
1&keywords=ubiquiti%2BWAP&th=1
Due to a large, sheetmetal duct in the center of the house between
floors, there's a shadow in coverage that's not good. That $130 is
a
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
low cost way to slap a second unit in the ceiling on the top floor
to
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
fill in that shadow.
Just search Amazon for Ubiquiti. Lots of toys at very good prices.
Post by Derek Atkins
Kyle,
The Unifi US-24-500W is $523 on Amazon. How is that
"inexpensive"? I
said I needed 16-24 ports, so not sure how an 8-port helps me. I
do
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
admit
I didn't specify "rackmount" in my OP -- Mea Culpa. But I'd
rather
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
find
something more in the $200 range for that purpose (a physically
private
network of IP security cameras).
Yes, I do have an Edgerouter for my main router, which replaced
my
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Routerboard because the RB750 couldn't keep up with my Gigapower
network.
I mostly like it.
Honestly I kind of like my DAP-2660 AC1200 AP and see little
reason
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
to
switch. It's worked quite well for me.
Thanks,
-derek
Post by Kyle Brieden
EdgeOS, and absolutely LOVE my ubiquity gear. I got the Unifi
8
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
port
PoE switch, Unifi Security Gateway, and the WAP that support
802.11ac.
It has literally changed my home networking. Can't recommend
it
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
enough.
I got all 3 of those seriously high grade boxes for about the
same
price you pay for a consumer router that supports 802.11ac.
HIGHLY recommend.
+1
---
Very respectfully,
Kyle Brieden
On September 11, 2017 10:04:42 AM EDT, Derek Atkins
com>
Post by Derek Atkins
Jim,
Post by Jim Kinney
10G multimode with lc connectors.
is it "easy" to build these? Are there LC connector
keystone
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
jacks
available?
Post by Jim Kinney
Unless you _really_ are forward looking and install 100G.
OM3 fiber looks like it will get to 40/100G
Post by Jim Kinney
Otherwise install conduit and spare pull strings. That
really
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
future-proofs an install.
I would plan for a 1" conduit with a single cat6, one
rg6,
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
one low
voltage
Post by Jim Kinney
line (music) and a pull string.
I'm not sure this is REALLY an option for me.I feel it is
certainly a
more
expensive option vs just running a bunch of cables now.
Post by Jim Kinney
Spend money on a distribution center that all these lines
start from.
Good
Post by Jim Kinney
10G switch, powered cable splitter, good remote
adjustable
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
amp for
music
Post by Jim Kinney
control.
Yes. My current house has a 96-port RJ45 patch panel (2/3
full). I
would
definitely repeat that. Similar with audio -- I've got a
6-
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
zone amp
(although I dont think my current one is remotely
adjustable --
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
but I
just
adjust via iTunes).
I'm still researching TV/HDMI distribution systems....
Oh, and trying to find a good 16-24-port PoE (10/)100/1000
switch.
Look at Ubiquity. They have a selection of PoE switches in
various
port counts and rather affordable pricing. I've got a WAP and
a
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
16
port 10G switch from them. Pretty happy with both. Control
software is
closed source. Hardware looks like it may run the open switch
software
whose name escapes me.
Post by Derek Atkins
-derek
Post by Jim Kinney
On September 11, 2017 9:33:47 AM EDT, Derek Atkins
fp.com>
Post by Derek Atkins
Hi Alers,
If you had the ability to future-proof your house
(imagine
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
open
studs,
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
so you could run anything you wanted), what would you
run. Assume a
max
of 6 cables per drop?
Last time I ran 4x Cat6A and 2x RG6. However I'm never
using both
RG6
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
F-connectors, so I figured I could replace that with
something else.
And before you ask, yes, I *AM* using all 4 RJ45
connectors
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
in some
of
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
my drops (and in one place I wish I had MORE Rj45).
So,
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
what else
should I run?
My current theory is 4x Cat6A, 1x RG6, and 1x Fiber.
However I'm not sure what kind of "fiber" to run, nor
what
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
kind of
connector I should use.
Any suggestions or recommendations?
-derek
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
Computer and Internet Security Consultant
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
--
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. All tyopes are
thumb
related
Post by Jim Kinney
and reflect authenticity.
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
Computer and Internet Security Consultant
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
***@ihtfp.com www.ihtfp.com
Computer and Internet Security Consultant

_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
***@ale.org
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
Kyle Brieden
2017-09-13 13:45:22 UTC
Permalink
It is a little bit of a chicken-and-egg scenario dropping Unifi gear
into an existing network, but there's actually quite a few solid
writeups already out there on how to do it effectively with minimal
downtime. I actually would like to do my own writeup on it, as well.

It actually doesn't require Windows, just java. They actively support
Windows and Linux for the controller. I have a buddy that runs his
controller in a Digital Ocean droplet and has had no issues at all.

The config loss is a super weird issue that I'm not really sure I
understand yet. Someone out there has to have more context on the
factors that lead up to it, but typically, once the devices have been
configured by the controller, they Just Work (TM). I mostly run the
controller constantly because it does some really awesome DPI and
traffic statistics for me, plus it runs a speed check every 30 minutes
and I can see a report.

Which reminds me... I need to set up that twitter complainer to gripe at
comcast when I'm getting less than 1/6th my paid for speed...

---
Very respectfully,
Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
This seems like it could be a bootstrap problem.. If the VM (I presume it
requires Windows?) runs on my laptop, but my laptop needs to either access
the 802.11 AP.. Or I suppose it needs to access the switch, but the
switch would need to already be working in order for my DHCP server to
respond...
I suppose if the only configuration that needs to be configured externally
would be special features, like LAG, then that's probably okay.
Losing its mind when it reboots is NOT okay. I have a TP-Link switch
right now that I had configured for LAG to my Cisco.. Every once in a
while the TP-Link would lose its mind and stop routing traffic across to
the Cisci. I know it's the TP and not the Cisco because I had to
re-configure the TP and re-enable the LAG config. Don't know what was up
with that, but I just decided that having a single 1G link that didn't
fail was better than a 2G LAG that would stop sending packets at random
times.
-derek
Post by Kyle Brieden
This is mostly correct. The UniFi devices still run EdgeOS and can be
managed via SSH as well. The problem is that any changes you make don't
get propagated UP to the controller, so they will be lost if a
controller provisions the devices. There's also instances of devices
losing configuration on reboot, thus requiring a controller to provision
them on reboot for continuity.
There's methods around that, but I like the controller (which I run on a
VM here), so I didn't get into those.
---
Very respectfully,
Kyle Brieden
Post by Scott Plante
My understanding is that the UniFi uses a centralized management
software while the EdgeSwitch uses a local individual web/ssh
management interface. It used to be you had more flexibility with the
ssh command line interface but they have been releasing new
iterations
of the UniFi control software so that may not be true so much anymore.
We just ordered a 48 port EdgeSwitch, Amazon Warehouse
scratch-and-dent to save money. Supposedly only had a scratched finish
on the back but turned out to be DOA. Fans would run but no lights and
no switching. The full price version wasn't prime, and we already have
a Ubiquity wi-fi using the management software, so I ordered the UniFi
48-port switch--supposed to be here Wednesday.
For the UniFi, you can buy a small device (is it a RPi inside?) that
has it running, or install it somewhere locally. At least for the
hotspot, there's no way to administer the device directly, if I
remember correctly.
https://hub.docker.com/r/jacobalberty/unifi/
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Cloud-Key-Control/dp/B017T2QB22/
--
Scott Plante
-------------------------
SENT: Tuesday, September 12, 2017 11:09:20 AM
SUBJECT: Re: [ale] Future-proofing a house for networking -- what to
run?
Kyle,
Thanks for the info. I must applogize to you -- I read your reply
before seeing the one to which you were replying.
The cameras I plan to get require 12W each (well, the power supply they
come with is a 12V 1A power supply -- so I'm ASSUMING that it will want
to draw 12W from PoE). This means that the 250W swich can only
support
20 cameras (which *MAY* be sufficient). So that would certainly save
~$200 versus the -500W version. On the other hand part of that 250W
probably needs to power the router itself, so it's probably fewer
cameras than that. So I might still need to go to the 500W version
for
$523.
The Cisco you list below only has 12 PoE ports, which isn't
sufficient.
Question: What is the difference between the UniFi Switch and the
EdgeSwitch?
-derek
Post by Kyle Brieden
I suppose I could have been more clear. I was not so much
recommending the specific gear I have as I was recommending Ubiquiti
as a brand, and noting the gear that I have as anecdotal evidence to
support my recommendation. If you've already got high enough
density
Post by Kyle Brieden
switching infrastructure, don't change it for sake of having all
your
Post by Kyle Brieden
gear be the same brand. Network gear is network gear, and it all
plays nice together... more or less, anyway. But Ubiquiti gear is,
in
Post by Kyle Brieden
my experience, far less expensive than comparably featured,
supported,
Post by Kyle Brieden
and classed gear from damn near any other manufacturer.
24 port managed PoE - $365 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-Switch-Managed-US-24-250W/dp/B00OJZUQ24/
Post by Kyle Brieden
24 port managed PoE - $385 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeSwitch-ES-24-250W-24-Ports-Managed/dp/B00LV8Z2V2/
Post by Kyle Brieden
24 port managed PoE - $305 -
https://www.amazon.com/Cisco-SG200-26P-Ethernet-Mini-GBIC-SLM2024PT/dp/B004GHMU5Q/
Post by Kyle Brieden
24 port managed - $215 -
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-GS724Tv4-24-Port-Lifetime-Protection/dp/B00I5W5EGA/
Post by Kyle Brieden
24 port managed - $193 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-24-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01LZBLO0U/
Post by Kyle Brieden
24 port managed - $185 -
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Edgeswitch-Gigabit-ES-24-LITE/dp/B013Z21ZJE/
Post by Kyle Brieden
There's lots of range and options, I was simply saying that I
recommend Ubiquiti. Their support is incredibly helpful and
knowledgeable (in my experience with them), their gear is high
quality
Post by Kyle Brieden
and easy to deploy, and I've been happy with the products I've
purchased to date.
---
Very respectfully,
Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Jim,
Yes, I know the US-24-500W is a 24-port switch. Kyle recommended
an
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
8-port, which doesn't help me.
The PoE switch is, as I just said, for my PoE IP Camera network.
My
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
main
network is separate. I cannot leverage any open ports on this
switch for
my main network (and I doubt the IP cameras suppose VLANs).
I've already got a Cisco SG200-50 for my main switch. For the few
additional PoE devices I have (currently: 2) I can just use
standard
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
PoE
power injectors. They cost $17 each, which is much less than the
additional cost of a PoE capable switch. So if I need to add a
second AP,
I'll happily pay another $17 vs having to spend an additional
$100-200 for
a (second) PoE-capable switch.
I would also prefer to limit the number of switches if I can to
limit the
required cross-connects (which of course become bottlenecks).
-derek
Post by Jim Kinney
That's a 24-port 1G PoE switch. It provides power to 24 downstream
devices like phones, small switches and with some hacking,
systems.
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
That particular switch is pretty useful for being a gateway switch
for
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
other Ubiquiti WAPs (most all run on PoE).
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO
-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505157073&sr=1-
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
1&keywords=ubiquiti%2BWAP&th=1
Due to a large, sheetmetal duct in the center of the house between
floors, there's a shadow in coverage that's not good. That $130 is
a
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
low cost way to slap a second unit in the ceiling on the top floor
to
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
fill in that shadow.
Just search Amazon for Ubiquiti. Lots of toys at very good prices.
Post by Derek Atkins
Kyle,
The Unifi US-24-500W is $523 on Amazon. How is that
"inexpensive"? I
said I needed 16-24 ports, so not sure how an 8-port helps me. I
do
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
admit
I didn't specify "rackmount" in my OP -- Mea Culpa. But I'd
rather
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
find
something more in the $200 range for that purpose (a physically
private
network of IP security cameras).
Yes, I do have an Edgerouter for my main router, which replaced
my
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Routerboard because the RB750 couldn't keep up with my Gigapower
network.
I mostly like it.
Honestly I kind of like my DAP-2660 AC1200 AP and see little
reason
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
to
switch. It's worked quite well for me.
Thanks,
-derek
Post by Kyle Brieden
EdgeOS, and absolutely LOVE my ubiquity gear. I got the Unifi
8
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
port
PoE switch, Unifi Security Gateway, and the WAP that support
802.11ac.
It has literally changed my home networking. Can't recommend
it
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
enough.
I got all 3 of those seriously high grade boxes for about the
same
price you pay for a consumer router that supports 802.11ac.
HIGHLY recommend.
+1
---
Very respectfully,
Kyle Brieden
On September 11, 2017 10:04:42 AM EDT, Derek Atkins
com>
Post by Derek Atkins
Jim,
Post by Jim Kinney
10G multimode with lc connectors.
is it "easy" to build these? Are there LC connector
keystone
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
jacks
available?
Post by Jim Kinney
Unless you _really_ are forward looking and install 100G.
OM3 fiber looks like it will get to 40/100G
Post by Jim Kinney
Otherwise install conduit and spare pull strings. That
really
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
future-proofs an install.
I would plan for a 1" conduit with a single cat6, one
rg6,
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
one low
voltage
Post by Jim Kinney
line (music) and a pull string.
I'm not sure this is REALLY an option for me.I feel it is
certainly a
more
expensive option vs just running a bunch of cables now.
Post by Jim Kinney
Spend money on a distribution center that all these lines
start from.
Good
Post by Jim Kinney
10G switch, powered cable splitter, good remote
adjustable
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
amp for
music
Post by Jim Kinney
control.
Yes. My current house has a 96-port RJ45 patch panel (2/3
full). I
would
definitely repeat that. Similar with audio -- I've got a
6-
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
zone amp
(although I dont think my current one is remotely
adjustable --
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
but I
just
adjust via iTunes).
I'm still researching TV/HDMI distribution systems....
Oh, and trying to find a good 16-24-port PoE (10/)100/1000
switch.
Look at Ubiquity. They have a selection of PoE switches in
various
port counts and rather affordable pricing. I've got a WAP and
a
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
16
port 10G switch from them. Pretty happy with both. Control
software is
closed source. Hardware looks like it may run the open switch
software
whose name escapes me.
Post by Derek Atkins
-derek
Post by Jim Kinney
On September 11, 2017 9:33:47 AM EDT, Derek Atkins
fp.com>
Post by Derek Atkins
Hi Alers,
If you had the ability to future-proof your house
(imagine
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
open
studs,
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
so you could run anything you wanted), what would you
run. Assume a
max
of 6 cables per drop?
Last time I ran 4x Cat6A and 2x RG6. However I'm never
using both
RG6
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
F-connectors, so I figured I could replace that with
something else.
And before you ask, yes, I *AM* using all 4 RJ45
connectors
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
in some
of
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
my drops (and in one place I wish I had MORE Rj45).
So,
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
what else
should I run?
My current theory is 4x Cat6A, 1x RG6, and 1x Fiber.
However I'm not sure what kind of "fiber" to run, nor
what
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Kyle Brieden
Post by Derek Atkins
Post by Jim Kinney
Post by Derek Atkins
kind of
connector I should use.
Any suggestions or recommendations?
-derek
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
Computer and Internet Security Consultant
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
--
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. All tyopes are
thumb
related
Post by Jim Kinney
and reflect authenticity.
--
Derek Atkins 617-623-3745
Computer and Internet Security Consultant
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo_______________________________________________
Ale mailing list
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo/ale
See JOBS, ANNOUNCE and SCHOOLS lists at
http://mail.ale.org/mailman/listinfo
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