I'll tell you what I know, based on my own experiences including selling
items on behalf of my mother's estate through 2016 and 2017.
Any coin or sports memorabilia dealer is going to do his or her level
best to give you only a token amount of money for everything. It's not a
matter of them being trustworthy vs. not; it's just business - including
a healthy amount of information asymmetry. Consider that if you bring
them 300 coins, going through each one to both identify it and grade it
is no small task. Coins that are packaged and graded through one of the
major grading companies like the American Numismatic Association
Certification Service have a value-add baked into them, but it is
generally not going to be worth that or even paying to have a local
expert grade them when you're talking about e.g. 50-cent pieces that
might sell for $0.75.
In other words, coins are a massive time sink and unless you have some
pieces that are in exceptionally good condition for their age, they just
aren't worth much. Having said this, I have some recommendations for
eBaying:
* If there are some individual coins that seem like they may be worth
at least a few bucks but you don't know grade, don't bother trying
to grade it yourself; just take really good photos of obverse and
reverse. I got good results by putting them on the flatbed glass of
a decent scanner (and that process is pretty fast, too - especially
for getting images of a lot of coins at once). But some years back,
before you could get better than 300dpi on a scanner, i set up a rig
where I'd place a coin on a gray cardboard circle atop a lightbox
and set a truncated cone of aluminum foil on top of that so I could
shoot a picture with a DSLR through the hole atop the cone; this
made for nice even lighting all the way around the coin.
* If the coins in the plastic tub are mostly undifferentiated and
well-worn, group together the all-copper and all-silver ones by
denomination and by composition (you'll have to look that up) and
sell each group as a set. Unless there are some real outliers as far
as rarity goes, the clad coins are all pretty much worth face if
they've been circulated at all.
* EBay and PayPal together take quite a chunk out of any sale. I
worked up a spreadsheet in Calc that runs the numbers with all the
fees and allows for different shipping payments by buyer and seller
(ideally they are the same) and the cost of packaging so I can tell
how much I've cleared or, more importantly, use Goal Seek to know
what opening bid I need in order to clear a given amount or break
even. It's very easy to wind up upside-down on an eBay sale if you
start an auction too low and that's what it sells for. And clearly,
if you've gathered together 100 silver quarters to sell as a lot you
want to make sure you clear no less than $25 on the sale.
For the sports memorabilia, some of the above holds with the addition
that you can often search existing or past sales to get an idea what to
ask for. If there are existing sales, your mission is to set your
opening bid so as to undercut everyone else without risking going
upside-down.
Post by Jerald Sheets via AleMy Dad passed away recently, and Iâve got a plastic tub FULL of coins. Iâve also got some sports memorabilia here.
I need to unload it all.
Problem Statement: Every time Iâve ever even so much as entered a coin shop, I walked away feeling as though I needed a shower after. Either the place was filthy, or the people were specious, or I felt like I was dealing with Rick from âPawn Starsâ.
Do any of you have a relationship with a coin shop and/or a sports memorabilia shop that is trustworthy and honest that you would recommend? I donât want to keep all this mess, but at the same time, I donât want to get taken advantage of. My dad and grandmother spent almost 40 years collecting all this, and Iâd like to have their efforts mean something by not âgiving away the farmâ to some disreputable clod(ess).
Any help would be most appreciated!
Jerald
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